In May of 2004, joined by old friend and Sinton, Texas, native
Steve B, we returned to the City of Light. Cold, rainy weather,
coupled with Rob’s severe sinus infection, had marred our first
Atlantic shipboard crossing in September 2001. The May days of
this visit were cool and showery.
From San Francisco, we flew Continental to Houston where
Steve joined us, then overnight business class on a new Boeing
777 stretch to Paris/DeGaulle. For 25 years, Continental has
been the carrier of choice. In-flight food service, business level
and above, remains a treat---American gourmet on the USA-Paris
leg and a French menu on the way home. After dinner, “Phantom
of the Opera” on the screen and a cognac in hand.
The next morning, we cleared airport Customs and Security and
met a representative of the apartment owner Paul found on the
Internet on Craig’s List---Travel. The newly remodeled second-
floor flat could sleep six, had a full bath and kitchen/laundry, and
was located in the Marais, an upper-middle class neighborhood
only one block from the Metro. Five nights, 3 persons: $250
each. Far better than hotel prices.
We were greeted curbside by our friend of 15 years, Francois
Pasdeloupe. Francois (say “Franzwaa“), a retired French
Railway administrator, became our guide extraordinaire, a
wonderful source of historical and cultural detail and itinerary
suggestions only a Parisian who loves his city can provide.
Francois, who attended public schools in rural France, is
bilingual---a policy we should adopt once we learn how to teach
one language properly. He perfected his English accent
watching American movies of the thirties through fifties.
A clean, efficient metro subway was the best transportation. One
morning, a small band of gypsy troubadors made their way
through the cars. Although they were professional, we didn’t
encourage them as they could have been “fronts” for
pickpockets who might follow. (As the media has recently
reported, France has its challenges with minority discrimination,
similar to what our country continues to experience.)
The original city center is spectacular and should be seen in
person. The “sense of place” is unlike any city on Earth. Wide
boulevards, lined with mulberry trees shaped in rectangles as
per Louis 14th’s original instruction, lead to traffic circles
featuring classical sculpture. It is obvious why Hitler’s generals
refused his order to burn the city at the end of the Occupation.
We are far too young a nation to appreciate a culture that has
evolved over centuries. The French have maintained an
admirable pace of living---time to savor good things: friendship,
family, a glass of wine and cuisine unmatched on this planet.
Alcoholism is not prevalent, as children are given watered wine
with dinner and taught to respect the grape. Incidence of
obesity and heart disease are among the lowest in Europe,
although menus are full of rich fare. This phenomenon may be
due in part to red wine consumption which may reduce fat’s
effects, as well as regular exercise like walking and bicycling.
Paris is a mix of distinct neighborhoods, each with its own
ambience. Small bread and pastry bakeries and meat, poultry
and cheese markets operate as they have for generations.
Parks are full of children. Adults enjoy each other at the
sidewalk café. Nationalized railways run on time, equipped with
sleek, new rolling stock. We took a fast train into the countryside
to see Versailles, Louis’s summer palace. In the 1700’s, the River
Seine was nothing more than an open sewer. The stench was
overwhelming, so royalty got out of town, along with 6,000
servants, and built their getaways. The Sun King’s digs are
grand scale: 400,000 square feet of opulence. Apparently, these
people were playing a game of “keeping up with the Joneses”
with the Pope. Ceiling frescoes, as in the Louvre, were worth
the admission price. Huge portraits of military adventures
featured Generals Lafayette and Washington plotting
Revolutionary War tactics. We tend to forget that the French
armada kept the British Navy at bay, thus saving our rebel butts.
“Freedom Fries” indeed. As it turns out, France was right about
Iraq. Of course, we don’t discuss that.
One night, Francois arranged a dinner and invited a group of his
friends---an interesting mix of young professionals into their mid-
40’s and Sorbonne University students in their 20’s. This cross-
section of Parisians revealed a genuine affection for our country
and its pop culture. They are well versed in American history,
compared to our feeble grasp of theirs. We were pleased to
hear an appreciation for the huge losses we sustained giving
France its freedom in two world wars. The men, however, were
unanimous in vehement opposition to our current international
policy regarding Europe and the Middle East. In their view, on
this issue, we are nothing more than meddling opportunists.
Iraq is not Afghanistan; 9-11 and Iraq were never related. The
war is imperialism of the worst kind. Based on evidence found
on the internet and from their government’s intelligence, the
majority think we will never leave. While the army and marines
will draw down their numbers for political expediency, seven
permanent airbases have been built at a billion dollars a copy.
American policy will be indirectly enforced in order to control an
oil-rich country.
Inevitably, Clinton’s proclivities came up to riotous laughter.
They countered that at their late President Mitterand’s funeral,
his wife and mistress sat side-by-side. The French consider
matters like this extremely personal, having nothing to do with
politics. The historical fact that the French bailed us out, back in
the 1700’s, is the stuff of national humor. They will always
remember.
The age-old complaint that the French are arrogant, selfish, and
xenophobic proved to be a myth. Take time to examine their
psychology as it relates to history. If your family had been
treated to royal and political frauds over the centuries, you’d be
suspicious, too. We found the French people to be reserved,
but open to different opinions. It is unwise to greet a lady on the
street as she might take it as a personal affront. Accepted as a
friendly gesture: Speak to a female clerk in a pastry shop with
“Bonjour” and a smile. Attitude is the universal ground-breaker.
Trying to use a native language is always appreciated, no matter
how badly you mangle it. One day, on a crowded bus, Rob
noticed an attractive lady in her sixties, dressed in a tailored
suit and coiffed to the nines, standing. Above her head was a
sign, "Always give your seat to seniors." So, being the
chivalrous sort, Rob offered. She gave him a negative shake of
the head and said she was too young to take advantage of the
courtesy. He replied, “Sorry, I am an American, I don‘t know.”
Her rejoinder was a knowing smile.
A Paris visit is a sensual tour de force. Take a walk along the
banks of the Seine at midnight, and you, too, might go home with
a different attitude about a country and its people. Great thanks
to our good friend Francois, who made each day an adventure.
Au revoir!
Steve B, we returned to the City of Light. Cold, rainy weather,
coupled with Rob’s severe sinus infection, had marred our first
Atlantic shipboard crossing in September 2001. The May days of
this visit were cool and showery.
From San Francisco, we flew Continental to Houston where
Steve joined us, then overnight business class on a new Boeing
777 stretch to Paris/DeGaulle. For 25 years, Continental has
been the carrier of choice. In-flight food service, business level
and above, remains a treat---American gourmet on the USA-Paris
leg and a French menu on the way home. After dinner, “Phantom
of the Opera” on the screen and a cognac in hand.
The next morning, we cleared airport Customs and Security and
met a representative of the apartment owner Paul found on the
Internet on Craig’s List---Travel. The newly remodeled second-
floor flat could sleep six, had a full bath and kitchen/laundry, and
was located in the Marais, an upper-middle class neighborhood
only one block from the Metro. Five nights, 3 persons: $250
each. Far better than hotel prices.
We were greeted curbside by our friend of 15 years, Francois
Pasdeloupe. Francois (say “Franzwaa“), a retired French
Railway administrator, became our guide extraordinaire, a
wonderful source of historical and cultural detail and itinerary
suggestions only a Parisian who loves his city can provide.
Francois, who attended public schools in rural France, is
bilingual---a policy we should adopt once we learn how to teach
one language properly. He perfected his English accent
watching American movies of the thirties through fifties.
A clean, efficient metro subway was the best transportation. One
morning, a small band of gypsy troubadors made their way
through the cars. Although they were professional, we didn’t
encourage them as they could have been “fronts” for
pickpockets who might follow. (As the media has recently
reported, France has its challenges with minority discrimination,
similar to what our country continues to experience.)
The original city center is spectacular and should be seen in
person. The “sense of place” is unlike any city on Earth. Wide
boulevards, lined with mulberry trees shaped in rectangles as
per Louis 14th’s original instruction, lead to traffic circles
featuring classical sculpture. It is obvious why Hitler’s generals
refused his order to burn the city at the end of the Occupation.
We are far too young a nation to appreciate a culture that has
evolved over centuries. The French have maintained an
admirable pace of living---time to savor good things: friendship,
family, a glass of wine and cuisine unmatched on this planet.
Alcoholism is not prevalent, as children are given watered wine
with dinner and taught to respect the grape. Incidence of
obesity and heart disease are among the lowest in Europe,
although menus are full of rich fare. This phenomenon may be
due in part to red wine consumption which may reduce fat’s
effects, as well as regular exercise like walking and bicycling.
Paris is a mix of distinct neighborhoods, each with its own
ambience. Small bread and pastry bakeries and meat, poultry
and cheese markets operate as they have for generations.
Parks are full of children. Adults enjoy each other at the
sidewalk café. Nationalized railways run on time, equipped with
sleek, new rolling stock. We took a fast train into the countryside
to see Versailles, Louis’s summer palace. In the 1700’s, the River
Seine was nothing more than an open sewer. The stench was
overwhelming, so royalty got out of town, along with 6,000
servants, and built their getaways. The Sun King’s digs are
grand scale: 400,000 square feet of opulence. Apparently, these
people were playing a game of “keeping up with the Joneses”
with the Pope. Ceiling frescoes, as in the Louvre, were worth
the admission price. Huge portraits of military adventures
featured Generals Lafayette and Washington plotting
Revolutionary War tactics. We tend to forget that the French
armada kept the British Navy at bay, thus saving our rebel butts.
“Freedom Fries” indeed. As it turns out, France was right about
Iraq. Of course, we don’t discuss that.
One night, Francois arranged a dinner and invited a group of his
friends---an interesting mix of young professionals into their mid-
40’s and Sorbonne University students in their 20’s. This cross-
section of Parisians revealed a genuine affection for our country
and its pop culture. They are well versed in American history,
compared to our feeble grasp of theirs. We were pleased to
hear an appreciation for the huge losses we sustained giving
France its freedom in two world wars. The men, however, were
unanimous in vehement opposition to our current international
policy regarding Europe and the Middle East. In their view, on
this issue, we are nothing more than meddling opportunists.
Iraq is not Afghanistan; 9-11 and Iraq were never related. The
war is imperialism of the worst kind. Based on evidence found
on the internet and from their government’s intelligence, the
majority think we will never leave. While the army and marines
will draw down their numbers for political expediency, seven
permanent airbases have been built at a billion dollars a copy.
American policy will be indirectly enforced in order to control an
oil-rich country.
Inevitably, Clinton’s proclivities came up to riotous laughter.
They countered that at their late President Mitterand’s funeral,
his wife and mistress sat side-by-side. The French consider
matters like this extremely personal, having nothing to do with
politics. The historical fact that the French bailed us out, back in
the 1700’s, is the stuff of national humor. They will always
remember.
The age-old complaint that the French are arrogant, selfish, and
xenophobic proved to be a myth. Take time to examine their
psychology as it relates to history. If your family had been
treated to royal and political frauds over the centuries, you’d be
suspicious, too. We found the French people to be reserved,
but open to different opinions. It is unwise to greet a lady on the
street as she might take it as a personal affront. Accepted as a
friendly gesture: Speak to a female clerk in a pastry shop with
“Bonjour” and a smile. Attitude is the universal ground-breaker.
Trying to use a native language is always appreciated, no matter
how badly you mangle it. One day, on a crowded bus, Rob
noticed an attractive lady in her sixties, dressed in a tailored
suit and coiffed to the nines, standing. Above her head was a
sign, "Always give your seat to seniors." So, being the
chivalrous sort, Rob offered. She gave him a negative shake of
the head and said she was too young to take advantage of the
courtesy. He replied, “Sorry, I am an American, I don‘t know.”
Her rejoinder was a knowing smile.
A Paris visit is a sensual tour de force. Take a walk along the
banks of the Seine at midnight, and you, too, might go home with
a different attitude about a country and its people. Great thanks
to our good friend Francois, who made each day an adventure.
Au revoir!
| Paris Digest: Impressions of City and People by Rob and Paul |
Louis XV's Chocolate Recipe "Place one tablet of chocolate for each cup of water in a coffee pot and bring it slowly to the boil; when ready to serve, add one egg yolk for every four cups and stir with the baton over a slow fire, without boiling. It is better if made in the evening for the next day. Those who drink it every day save a leaven for the next day's pot. Instead of an egg yolk, a whipped egg white can be used after removing the first froth; blend it with a little chocolate taken from the coffee pot, then put it in the pot and finish off as with a yolk." (Found by Jan on Internet.) |
Photos top of page: 1. Eiffel Tower 2. Notre Dame Cathedral 3. A food shop Middle: 1. The Palace of Versailles 2. The Louvre Bottom left: 1. Sunset Eiffel Tower 2. Lamp & Tower Left: L'Arc de Triomphe Link "Ceiling frescoes" is in the Hall of Mirrors at Versailles |